From buying bulding materials to problems with damp, here are some handyman solutions:
Prime cost items
This is a term that will apply more to the formal type of alteration contract or construction of a new house, where a bill of quantities has been prepared by a quantity surveyor, but the same principle applies to all alterations.
A prime cost item is an allowance of money for an as yet unspecified material, such as floor tiles, sanitaryware or ironmongery. For example, the item would read, allow a PC amount of R100/m2 for the purchase of floor tiles. This helps to establish the total projected cost of the job. When the actual tile is chosen, the account can be adjusted up or down as dictated by the price paid.
I raise this to make you aware of the advantages and disadvantages of buying materials yourself. Unless you are working with a very small contractor, who cannot afford to purchase his own materials, I strongly suggest the contractor buy most of the materials himself, apart from those mentioned above and, of course, light fittings.
The contractor must be responsible for the flow of materials to the site, as this avoids the delays caused by the non-arrival of items you were purchasing. Secondly, if you are dealing with a recognised contractor, his prices for bulk items such as sand, stone, cement, bricks and timber will be better than any you can get.
However, buying cash can save you money on items where specials are available, because the contractor will never get the same price buying on his account as you do with cash. If you are going to buy certain items yourself, please check with your contractor or sub-contractor that what you are about to buy is compatible with the wiring or piping already installed.
Ironmongery
Beware of buying cheap. Door locks, hinges and handles are used all the time and you want items that are going to last. Start by checking that what you are buying carries an SABS-approved stamp, and also ensure you are buying the right product for the job. Discuss your needs with an expert. Heavy doors need stronger hinges or extra hinges. An outside door lock needs to be more burglar-proof than that on an interior door.
Locks are graded by the number of levers that operate it, so a 4-lever lock will be more secure than a 2-lever lock. Solid metal handles are less likely to wear and rust than items which have been plated, sprayed or coated.
It can be fun scouring flea markets or junk stores for antique fittings, but don’t buy something that there might well be no spare parts for, and remember what you buy must be practical.
Round door knobs are harder to use than door handles, especially if they are fitted close to the frame and, as age creeps up, you want to make sure that you have the strength and grip to be able to use the device. When it comes to ironmongery, functionality is far more important than appearance.
But with modern technology everything will soon be electronic, and we’ll have no keys – just remote control devices. There are already sophisticated systems available in the country, so if you are planning a new home, maybe you should be thinking hi-tech.
Internal wall problems – checking door and window frames and sealing outside walls
Having checked all the other possibilities, the only reason left for penetrating damp, is water seeping in around door and window frames.
Let's start with the obvious. First check that there are no cracked window panes, as with plaster even the smallest crack will let water seep through. Then ensure that the window casements or doors fit tightly into the surrounding frames and that there are no gaps that could admit water.
Thirdly ensure that the putty is sound or, if you have glazing beads, that they are well bedded in putty or silicone. Also check the soundness of all the timbers – if you find soft spots, chances are the wood is starting to rot and letting water in.
Moving to the perimeter of the frame, there should be no gaps between the frame and whatever surrounds it, such as plaster or brickwork. As we are dealing with hard substances, a perfect joint is almost impossible to create, so all joints or intersections should be well-sealed with a flexible filler such as silicone, polysulphide or a similar material. If an area appears suspect, try inserting the blade of a sharp flat knife to see how far it penetrates.
If everything appears in order, do the hosepipe test. Play the hose over the whole frame, with somebody standing inside to check for drips starting to appear. (Don't forget to close the window first.) Try and work slowly and systematically, so that weak areas can be identified as they appear. Remember the area that the water is exiting is not always at the same place that it is entering; water will find a weak spot.
Frames built into cavity walls should be fitted with a damp- proof course on all four sides. On the two vertical sides, the dpcs should be built into the brickwork, while the cavities on the top and bottom should be sealed, as I discussed last week. Replacing the dpcs can be expensive and the cheaper option is to ensure that all joints are tightly sealed with a flexible sealant, which may need to be replaced every second year, or even every year in areas with harsh weather.
In cases where water is penetrating between the frames and casements or door, try to make the joints tighter by fixing an expanding sealer strip to the frame; these come in various thicknesses and widths and are self-adhesive on one side.
Where your walls are badly cracked or the cavities are failing, the whole wall should be sealed with an appropriate paint. In extreme cases of cavity failure the weep holes should be closed up, and sealed over. All cracks should be opened up, and sealed with flexible filler, all loose plaster removed down to a solid base and new plaster applied. The walls should then be painted with a pure acrylic paint, which comes in different names from all the major paint companies.
Where the walls are badly crazed with minor cracks, a fibreglass tissue should be applied between the first and second coats of paint. This helps form an impervious barrier, but also allows for minor movement. This task has become easier in recent years as some manufacturers are now producing paint which contain strands of fibreglass. - Weekend Argus