East London - Every time we passed through the area, the signpost for the Tsitsa Falls, near Maclear in the north-eastern Cape, caught the eye, but there was never time to explore.
We consoled ourselves by saying the river was probably low, with little water coming over the falls.
Then, finally, conditions were perfect – with time to spare and recent heavy rain. So I kept an eagle eye open for the small sign.
It was not far to travel and, despite the rain, the road was good. At Tsitsa Falls Backpackers & Adventures, they said it was possible to drive down to the river. Not wanting to take a chance on possibly getting stuck, I asked if I could walk. “It’s an easy drive,” said Angelina Badenhorst, who runs the backpackers.
Despite her reassurances, I set off on foot, accompanied by a friendly dog who was only too delighted to frolic freely.
Imagine my mortification when I found the road down to the river was an absolute doddle. Even a tiny, low-slung car could manage it easily. How embarrassing… Angelina probably wondered how such a pussycat had found her way there at all. Driving a bakkie made it seem even worse.
Perhaps because it was now necessary to save some face, I stopped walking down the road, and cut across the countryside. This proved to be soggy, like a giant sponge after the rain, so there was quite a bit of slip-sliding, wondering whether I might skid dramatically down into the gorge. Not that there was even the remotest possibility of such an ignominious ending, but it can be fun bluffing oneself you are doing something daring and adventurous.
The roar of the falls beckoned, spray rose skyward and my canine companion lolloped ahead. Then, there we were, poised on a rocky outcrop. Because there was so much water pouring over, not much of the Tsitsa Falls could be seen through the misty veil hanging over them. The dog loved it, pausing dramatically to take in the scene.
We then followed the muddy, racing river back upstream and, cold, wet and muddy, finally arrived back at the backpackers, where Angelina promptly produced a cup of coffee.
Tactfully, Angelina said not a word about my choosing to walk rather than chance the perfectly passable road.
“My husband, Adriaan, used to be a river rafting guide,” she said. “I acted as cook, nurse, bottle-washer and general assistant.” The couple have worked the waters of the Orange, Vaal and Olifants Rivers, among others, before deciding to run the Tsitsa Falls Backpackers.
According to Angelina, the water sport here is mostly seasonal, while in winter flyfishing in the gorge is popular.
“The Tsitsa, Tina, Mooi and Pot Rivers are all paddlable,” she said. Many rivers in this part of the world flow into the Umzimvubu, which spills into the sea at Port St Johns.
Angelina said that same morning they had dropped three kayakers off below the waterfall, and would pick them up later in the day. “You need at least five years of kayaking experience in order to do such a trip,” she said hastily. (Perhaps it crossed her mind that I might be contemplating such a venture, and was wondering how I had morphed from timid mouse to Jungle Jane).
Other activities include abseiling, or a 150m zipline across the gorge. A day trip over the nearby Naude’s nek Pass can be fun, while this part of the world has plenty of fabulous rock art, as well as wonderful hiking terrain.
A small trading store on the premises, selling the likes of mealie meal, candles and sugar, adds to the character of the place.
There are varying kinds of accommodation for up to 22 people in the old farmhouse, in double or single rooms. The most interesting is in a rondavel, which dates back to 1919, looking out over the valley. There is also camping. Meals are provided, but they do need advance notice.
On the way out, I stopped off at a remote little graveyard in the middle of nowhere and tried to imagine the lives of those who now rest there.
Situated about 25km from Maclear, the Backpackers charge R300 for a double room; R150 for a single, and R65 for camping. Breakfast and lunch cost R50 and dinner R75.
l If you are approaching from the west from Maclear, under no circumstances take the first signposted road to the Tsitsa Falls, it is apparently terrible. Continue to the second one. Those coming from the east, or the KZN side of Maclear, take the first turn-off.
Contact 045 932 1138; e-mail: info@tsitsafalls.com - Sunday Tribune