East London - People are always asking how I find all the way-out spots that the SM Travel sometimes features. The answer is, keep an eye open for a small road branching away into the distance… preferably untarred, and if the scenery is great, all the better.
For those ready to leave the beaten track, here is a typical example. Leaving Jansenville, in the Eastern Cape, most travellers automatically take the longer tarred route if they are heading for Steytlerville.
An alternative option is to cut the triangle. There are two routes. One leads to Baroe (where you rejoin the tarred R329 some 26km from Steytlerville); the other goes via Mount Stewart (which rejoins the same road just outside Steytlerville).
Though untarred, at the time of my recent visit the latter was in superb condition, scenic and full of interesting sights.
Incidentally, a good source is to check with a local farmer as to the state of any untarred road. You can try the police, but they will invariably direct you to use the tar… often needlessly.
The deserted old hamlet of Mount Stewart is evocative. The wind blows the tumbleweeds. Battered buildings remind one that this was once home to a small but possibly thriving community.
In a dejected former store, with peeling paint, the cash tills once rang merrily; a church – standing isolated in the veld – was no doubt the heart of the community; a disused railway line rusts away, possibly reliving the thunder of train wheels.
Still, life has not totally died here – a sign reminds people that a stock sale is imminent.
Not far from here, I admired a magnificent entrance to a farm. Crafted from stone, it must give the farmer great pride and pleasure each time he sweeps through it. If this had been a guest farm, it would have instantly lured me.
Further along, the traveller passes Noorspoort Guest Farm – a popular destination with families with children – where rugby legend Danie Craven grew up.
Another example was taking a back road near Steynsburg, also in the Eastern Cape. Amazingly, I suddenly came across a tarred section, which grew steadily narrower.
Bush encroached on both sides, while grass grew in the middle. It really was quite mysterious. Where did it lead to? Eventually the way was barred by a gate with a sturdy lock.
So… about turn and try a different route, which led to the Orange/Fish River tunnel project, deep beneath the mountains. Its outlet point is overlooked by the landmark koppies Teebus and Koffiebus.
Ours is a country bursting with long-forgotten tales, and of places off the beaten track, just waiting to be explored – a veritable treasure trove for those who take the trouble.
l Contact: Noorspoort 049 835 0001; 079 957 8566 or 082 578 5503; e-mail info@noorspoort.co.za
The Royal Hotel 049 835 0385; 072 157 0832 or 079 498 4461; e-mail royal@dieseli.co.za - Sunday Tribune