East London - Do try to stop over on one of the farms in the countryside surrounding Maclear. The town may not be too enticing, but its history is fascinating.
The first people to inhabit the plains beneath the bastions of the Eastern Drakensberg near Maclear, and to seek shelter in caves, were the San. Their rock art shows they ranged far and wide. For instance, there is a painting of a ship being wrecked on rocks; as well as one believed to portray the walk taken to Maputo by people shipwrecked on the Portuguese ship, the Santo Alberto – and led by two priests carrying a cross.
The San also painted a wagon drawn by oxen – possibly depicting the arrival of the first white settlers; and one of a donkey. The first donkeys were brought to the area by the Griquas in 1862, and the last San were seen here in 1873.
During 1932 large stone blocks with San paintings were removed from caves on farms, and placed on display at the South African Museum in Cape Town. But the area is still rich in their art.
The Mpondomise settled along the Ndenxa River, naming it for the sound of water boiling in a pot. Later they changed it to Mbisa (meaning a pot). The white settlers picked up on this, and named it Pot River. As the area was not suitable for crops or cattle, most of the Mpondomise moved to the Tsolo and Qumbu area. The Ncapayi, outcasts from the AmaBhaca tribe, also roamed the area for a short while.
When the Mpondomise left, the British governor of the Cape Colony, Sir George Grey, claimed the area. He negotiated with Adam Kok, the leader of the Griquas, to exchange land near Kimberley and move eastwards. Kok accepted, settling his people in the present districts of Matatiele, Mount Currie and Mzimkulu. In 1862 he founded what is now known as Kokstad, which became the capital of New Griqualand. Old Griqualand became Griqualand West.
After a quarrel, a group of Griquas moved to Nqanqaru Drift (Maclear) and Inxu Drift (Ugie). In 1863 Reverend William Murray arrived at Inxu Drift to start a mission station.
WHERE TO STAY:
l Woodcliffe Country House, a cattle farm, 22km from Maclear, near the Naudesnek Pass. Call: 045 932 1550; info@woodcliffecavetrails.co.za
l Fairbairn Guest Farm, 14km from Maclear on the Mt Fletcher road. Call: 083 797 2846 or 083 278 0851; wwwfairbairnguestfarm.co.za
l Bob’s Place, 8km from Maclear on the road to Tsolo. Call: 045 932 1931; colleenviedge@gmail.com
WHERE TO EAT:
Tasty farm fare is available at the above farms. Daytrippers can try Walkerbouts Restaurant 53km from Maclear. Call: 045 974 9290; www.walkerbouts.co.za
WHAT TO DO:
View rock art, see Tsitsa Falls, dinosaur footprints. Maclear Tourism: www.maclear.co.za
Sunday Tribune