We were in his way and he wasn’t happy. A massive hunk of elephant, one of the three big males in the Pilanesberg National Park, was in musth – and our 4x4 was blocking his smooth walk along the road to a group of females.
We had watched the group earlier, enjoying the site of their massive bodies strolling along, laughing at the antics of the babies and oohhing at some teenage males that were mock fighting.
They smelled him before we did, and they made a hasty getaway – except for a group of naughty teens that were too busy pushing each other to notice the bull’s entrance.
Our guide, Jacque Kruger, was in contact with other rangers who were tracking a lion hunt not too far away, but we couldn’t move forward because the playful males had blocked the way and weren’t interested in moving.
Then Mr Angry strolled into view. He was much bigger than the younger males and was wet with musth. The younger males took one sniff at his pungent odour and ran.
He wasn’t interested in them anyway. They were too small for him to take much notice of. It was us he focused his attention on – the 4x4 was big enough for him to see us as a real contender in a battle he was determined to have. He came rushing towards us, trunk raised, ears flapping.
Jacque put the vehicle in reverse and made a quick exit.
We did this three times before the bull decided to calm down. But instead of leaving, he sat in the road, closed his eyes and seemed to fall asleep. We sat and waited – we had no other choice – until his morning nap was done and he decided to follow the females’ trail.
We rushed off and were just in time to see a lion finishing off what was left of an impala. The big hunt was over. It wasn’t too much of a loss since we had a charging elephant story in hand to share with the foreigners at our lodge, Kwa Maritane.
The trip back to the lodge was not an empty one – we saw a lazy cheetah basking under a tree, the first wild cheetah I had ever seen, and I was thrilled with the exciting morning I had just experienced.
Kwa Maritane is a four-star lodge which is a part of the Legacy group. Meaning “Place of the Rock”, it is the group’s oldest and most famous bush lodge. For years South Africans have been making their way to the laid-back, friendly camp for some away time.
But a fire a few years back which destroyed part of the lodge, a decrease in the amount of game at Pilanesberg, and a general decline in the travel industry have left the hotel side of the lodge with empty rooms. Which is a pity, since the warm atmosphere at Kwa Maritane has much to offer.
The parts of the lodge which were destroyed in the fire have been rebuilt and a fine restaurant where you can lazily sit for hours and enjoy a buffet lunch overlooking a watering hole has replaced the old kitchens.
Pilanesberg National Park has also changed management and the days where you didn’t see too many animals are over. The green rolling hills are now teeming with game and it doesn’t take long before you encounter not only the Big Five, but some endangered species too.
In two days I saw more animals than I have seen in a whole week at some of the bigger national parks. And only two hours away from Joburg, I felt as if I had won the lottery as far as bush breaks go.
The 90 hotel rooms have everything you need to enjoy a relaxing experience. While not quite five-star luxury, the large cupboard space, big lounge area and outside garden offer everything you need.
But other than for sleeping, chances are you won’t spend much of your time in the room.
Kwa Maritane’s best feature is a hide, a long underground tunnel which brings you to a viewing area right next to a watering hole. At the same level as the ground, you can watch animals so close it is breathtaking. The lodge has a webcam at the watering hole, broadcasting to guests on TVs in their rooms.
After lunch we strolled into the hide and were lucky to see about 20 elephants slurping up water. The adults in the hide were mesmerised while the children stared in wonder at the unusual site. It was a one-of-a-kind experience.
The lodge is particularly friendly towards families with children. With two pools, one with an amazing slide, it’s hard to keep the children away during the day. There are also educational offerings with a ranger teaching children interesting facts about the bush. We witnessed a snake demonstration that taught me quite a bit about the reptiles.
But, really, it was the game drives which are a highlight of any trip to the lodge.
Not quite so adrenalin filling, but curious nevertheless, that night we saw a zebra with a stick stuck up a place where a stick should never be. Jacque couldn’t believe his eyes. “I thought I had seen everything,” he said. She didn’t look in pain, but we were all a bit worried about her. She suddenly seemed to notice something was wrong and one or two kicks had it out of her in no time.
A short while later we found a group of lions heading out for a hunt and then we came across a lonely brown hyena – one of Southern Africa’s most endangered mammmals. A white rhino made an appearance and we heard that the park has suffered some losses through poaching of these beautiful creatures.
As the dark set in, I was quite tired after my thrilling day and sat back in the 4x4 feeling content. Suddenly, out the darkness, the lights of Sun City came into view. They glittered in the night – so close and yet so far from this haven of quiet and solitude.
l KwaMaritane Bush Lodge: 014 552 5100 kwamaritane@legacyhotels.co.za. Central Reservations: 011 805-6888 - Sunday Independent