Cape Town - This festive season thousands of people of all races will flock to malls and a particular famous eatery, and now a research study has revealed why Spur Steak Ranches’s focus on the “rainbow nation” branding and marketing stance overlooks ongoing racial tensions and inequality in South Africa.
Thembelihle Bongwana, a student at UWC, did her doctoral thesis on Spur, examining how the restaurant chain embodies and perpetuates South Africa’s complex race, class, gender, and cultural identity issues.
Her research, titled Public Eating, Food Spaces, and Social Identities in South Africa’s Spur Family Restaurant, takes a deep dive into the intersectionality of food, identity, and politics within one of the country’s most iconic dining institutions.
Bongwana, who was capped at UWC’s Summer Graduation on 12 December 2024, argues that Spur is more than just a place to eat.
She describes it as a cultural institution that has evolved over decades, adapting to and reflecting the societal dynamics of post-apartheid South Africa.
“What I am saying essentially is that the Spur is an institution that builds dreams or creates dreams that South Africans have become happy and okay with.
“It’s also important research because this is one important thing that makes Spur so powerful.
“And even when I interviewed the media person at the Spur there was an overwhelming sense of pride when talking about how they shifted from traditional forms of advertising and now they use ‘real’ feedback and ‘real life stories’.”
Bongwana stressed that these “dreams” often align with a superficial, feel-good narrative that fails to fully engage with the diverse and complex identities that shape the nation.
In her research, she further critiques the restaurant’s branding, particularly its reliance on North American “Wild West” themes, which she argues obscure South Africa’s socio-historical realities. These branding choices, she contends, displace indigenous cultural narratives and mask the legacy of apartheid, thus failing to engage deeply with local identities.
Bongwana’s findings suggest that Spur’s marketing strategies have largely relied on the idea of a “rainbow nation,” an ideal that continues to dominate the country’s post-apartheid narrative, yet, she asserts that such branding often overlooks the ongoing racial tensions and systemic inequalities that persist in South Africa.
Through a comprehensive analysis of Spur’s advertising, organisational practices, and public reception, Bongwana illustrates how the restaurant chain continues to perpetuate certain narratives about race, gender, and class, while contributing to the mythmaking surrounding the post-apartheid “rainbow nation” ideal.
Her work also critically engages with the role of popular culture in both perpetuating and challenging systems of inequality, thus making a significant contribution to global scholarship on the cultural politics of food.
Even though her research has gained significant attention, stirring the pot and sparking widespread debate on social media, it is believed that her findings have struck a nerve, prompting conversations about the way South African institutions, such as Spur, navigate the intersection of culture, identity, and history.
Spokesperson for Spur, Moshe Apleni, said while they preferred not to comment on the views expressed in research documents, they would like to emphasise their unwavering commitment to customers.
“For over five decades, Spur has proudly adapted to the evolving needs of our guests, creating a welcoming, inclusive dining space that celebrates family togetherness. “Through ongoing consumer insights and regular brand tracking studies, we continue to evolve to stay relevant to customer needs, including the next generation of young families.
“Last year, we introduced a refreshed brand for Spur, designed to reflect the vibrancy of South African families.
“This milestone represented a new era for the brand, marking a significant moment in its now 57-year history.
“Our commitment to adapting our dining experience and menu innovation to suit the majority of the South African market continues. Spur currently trades in more than 300 franchised restaurants in South Africa and more than 30 in the rest of Africa.”
tracy-lynn.ruiters@inl.co.za